A Day in Primary Colours

Red curtains. They are there for practical purposes - welding screens to protect the eyes from the intense glare of the arc. Brazing happens on one side of the shop, welding on the other. In the middle is this vinyl semi-transparent barrier. But the red backdrop spreads an aura around the room, bathing it in a mysterious, yet energising light. I see the light flicker dimly behind it, and somehow the universe seems to make sense.





Against the vast expanse of red, five adults open long cardboard boxes with the hushed anticipation of polite children on Christmas morning. Inside the boxes are steel tubes wrapped in newspaper. The unraveling is almost formally festive.






The blue work shirt. My grandfather worked in a machine shop and wore one well into his old age. In the '90s, the boys I went to high school with wore the same shirts because it was fashionable. They played in garage bands and dressed like mechanics, never having been near a wrench,which used to annoy me. Now some of them wear blue work shirts unironically, having indeed become mechanics or machinists. So it goes.






Blue buckets full of gloves, cotton and leather. I burned myself three times building my first frame. Once by picking up a piece of scrap metal after it had just been hole-sawed off. Another time by grabbing the frame too soon after it had been torch-dried post washing. And the third time by accidentally brushing the hop tip of a filler rod against my cheek. Who knows, sometimes the gloves help. Other times they are a hazard and can get stuck in a machine.








Yellow packaging, labels, warning signs, equipment decals. It is noticeable, even in a sea of other colours. See me, read me, peel me.





Yellow booklets, dusty yellow machines. I am too easily enticed to visit the other side of the curtain.




More pictures.

Lake Dorothy ..

The lake

Jennifer and I went for a mellow hike to Lake Dorothy. This is a highly maintained trail. (Lots of stairs.) It has an elevation gain of perhaps 1000' depending on how far you go and it is only about a mile and a half to the lake. Once at the lake there are numerous campsites and toilets for staying overnight.

Stairs and large downed tree.

Lake Dorothy is one of the larger lakes in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and is nearly a mile and a half long. We walked to the halfway point where Jennifer got a swim in, while I rested on shore. Then we continued to the far end of the lake before turning around and heading home. You could continue on the trail generally south until you reach the Middle Fork Snoqualmie River as well. But at that point you would need a car shuttle.

Jennifer was looking for a nice mellow trip to start hiking again and this proved good for that. Although we both wound up tired at the end and had to stop at the Sultan Bakery for a snack to make it home.

Fungus on tree stump

Also, it was quite crowded for a Monday. I presume it is a mad house on weekends.

Snoqualmie Mountain ..

Sammy and I planned a day of climbing something for Sunday and we didn't want it to be too intense. After throwing around a few ideas we settled on Snoqualmie Mountain. I have never been up it, and Sammy had when there was no snow, so it would be a new experience for both of us.

We arrived in the Alpental parking lot a little after 7am and were discussing our route options. Sammy was originally thinking to come up the Commonwealth Basin and then access Snoqualmie from Cave Ridge. We had both done that approach for winter ascents of Guye Peak. The guidebooks tell a tale of going up the trail to Cave Ridge from the Alpental Parking lot. I suggested we try something new and if it went, the distance was a whole lot shorter than circumnavigating Guye Peak.

From the parking lot we picked a high spot below a tree band that we would go up and assess the conditions to see if we could continue upward. We figured on twenty minutes to that point and potentially leaving us with enough time to come down and try the other route if this one did not go.

We entered the snow at the "Transceiver Training Area" and started to head up. Within five minutes it seemed like we were half way to the trees. Then the slope got steeper. Sammy and I stayed in some tree where we were following steps and we felt the snow was a little better. It was still before 8am and the sun was not hitting the slopes and the snow was hard and icy. We wondered why we brought snow shoes and contemplated stashing them. I said it would be a guarantee that we would be in waist deep snow later if we cached them now, so we kept them on our packs. This was Sammy's first time on steep snow this season and he was not feeling great about the snow climbing and lagged behind me a bit. I broke out of our stretch of trees and waited for him at a final tree in a more level area before we were to make the push to the trees above to see if the route went.

At this point, Sammy was having reservations about climbing the steep snow. But we agreed to go to the trees to see if the climbing became less difficult. Since we were on more level terrain, we donned crampons at this time. That decision gave both of us a little confidence boost to make the trees.

Nearing the trees, I went ahead of Sammy to check out the situation. I had to cross a moat with a small ice bridge with the help of an alder grab and then front point up steep solid snow into the woods. I stopped below a fallen log. While I thought the terrain looked easier above the log, I did not see any easy ways around it that did not involve minimal snow on rock or other loose terrain. I relayed the information to Sammy who made the decision to descend.

Sammy downclimbed facing in while I attempted to get out of the trees without having to downclimb over the small moat I came up over. It took me a while to reach Sammy after he returned to the more level area where we had put crampons on. At this point we had probably burned too much time to attempt via the Commonwealth Basin.

Fortunately due to our time wasting, the temps were a little warmer even if the sun was now obscured by clouds. Sammy got a new dose of confidence and started to traverse the slope to our left. Before we knew it, we were following another boot path up into the trees and feeling like we might still have a chance at the summit. At a minimum we were hoping to gain Cave Ridge and get a view.

Then we followed the the boot path to ice. There was about an eight foot stretch of maybe 40° ice. I started to chop steps into it. I made some moves with my left foot on rock and my right on ice. I had to swing my ax just to get the pick in and inch. A few moves up I questioned what I was doing, and Sammy and I set about to find another option up. Sammy set out on a traverse left while I tried a section directly above us. Neither was going to go without spicy moves on thin snow over moats and wet rock with significant shrub pulling only to get onto a similar steep hard snow slope. All the while considering how we would get back down once we got around the obstacle. After checking four options around the ice patch we finally decided to head back to the car. We down climbed through the woods back out to the open slope where the sun was shining and the snow already quite soft. We removed our crampons and plunge stepped our way back to the car.

Sammy nearing our high point

Before the plunge step down, I told Sammy it was our hubris that caused our failure. While perhaps an exaggeration, we both had underestimated this climb and had full expectation of reaching the summit. This expectation of easy climbing affected me (at least) in regards to my head space when the going got difficult. Climbing when not in an ideal head space is taxing, and not why I go out.

The plunge step out

I usually say that you learn more from a no summit climb than from a climb where the summit is achieved. On the way down and in the car we discussed things we took away from this. One was that we waited too long to put crampons on. I guess we succumbed to the boiling frog issue on that one. Because we underestimated the climb and snow conditions, we did not bring second tools or steel crampons, not to mention helmets or any type of rope.

Overall we had a fun time and joked about the situation throughout. It was great attempting a climb with Sammy and now I'll have a better idea for the next time I give Snoqualmie Mountain a go.

His and Hers Bicycles: Matching Looks vs Matching Performance

I love the idea of "His and Hers" bicycles: an elegant pair of lady's and gentleman's bikes from the same manufacturer. When we first decided to ride bicycles, the Co-Habitant and I envisioned ourselves exclusively on such matched pairs. We acquired a Pashley Princess and Roadster as our transport bikes.We acquired a Motobecane Super Mirage and Mirage Mixte as our roadbikes.And we acquired a Raleigh DL-1 Touristand Lady Tourist as our vintage 3-speeds.



It was all so perfect!... except that it wasn't. I could never keep up when we were both on the Pashleys, which was a constant source of discontent (I am now convinced that the female model is just inherently different from the male one). With the Motobecanes things were even worse, as my semi-upright mixte was no match for his racy SuperMirage roadbike. Despite being perfectly matched in looks, our beautiful velo couples were plagued by a disparity in performance.

Having finally decided that the illusion of perfection was not the same as perfection itself, I shattered the symmetry - first by replacing my Pashley Princess with a vintage Gazelle, and then by selling my Motobecane mixte. Interestingly, the Gazelle is a better match for the Pashley Roadster performance-wise, and we no longer experience the same problem with discrepancies in speed when cycling together on our commuter bikes.



As for roadbikes, it is difficult to keep up with somebody on drop bars, while yourself riding with upright bars - especially if you are a weaker cyclist to begin with. MyRivendellandTrekroadbikesmay not look as sexy next to the Co-Habitant'sMotobecane as my vintagemixte did, but they are a better match when it comes to actually cycling together.



This particular discrepancy in "his and hers" bikes is something I wonder about when I see a man and a woman cycling together, where he is on an aggressive roadbike and she is on an upright hybrid from the same manufacturer (usually Trek,Cannondale or Specialized). While I understand that the idea is for the woman (who is presumably less skilled) to ride an "easier bike," surely it must make the difference in their skill levels all the more acutely felt?



Of the three "His and Hers" pairs we started with, only our vintage Raleigh DL-1s remain. These are actually matched pretty nicely in terms of performance, so apparently "back in the day" Raleigh got it right whereas today's Pashley did not. Although we do not ride these as often as we ride our main transport bikes, it is nice to have at least one pair of bicycles that matches both in looks and performance. Who knows, maybe in the future there will be more - but the performance aspect is a must. After all, a couple's chemistry is about more than just looks.

...And More Summer

Last weekend we saw a tremendous number of climbers heading up Mount Rainier and lots of folks just out for a day hike, picnic at Muir or getting some rather great mid-July turns in. Most routes on the mountain seem to be staying in great shape thanks to a cooler and wetter than average June.



July is one of the busiest months for climbing on Rainier, but those seeking more solitude should try for mid-week climbs on the popular routes, such as the DC and Emmons, or head out to some of the more remote west-side routes that are still in good shape. Also many thanks to the climbers who have been helping keep the routes and high camps clean during this busy time of year. We really appreciate your efforts.



Check out a couple of great trip reports sent to us by contributing climbers Bartosz Paliswiat and Scott Seitz on Sunset Ridge and Success Clever, respectively. The photo at right was also taken by Paliswiat. Guess Sunset Ridge got its name for a reason!

Sunsets Last Week

Pining for Panniers

My Pashley Princess is undergoing a little make-over and, among other things, she will be getting panniers for her rear rack. My criteria for the panniers, are that they be of a classic design and colour, water resistant, connected at the top so that they hang over the rack (rather than two separate bags connected to each side of the rack), easy to open, fairly compact, and fit my 13" Macbook (sideways is fine). I have narrowed it down to the following:



[image via bikebarn]

Brooks "Brick Lane" roll-up panniers. I have been eying these since before I bought my Pashley last year, but haven't been able to afford them. The panniers are waxed canvas. They roll up tidily when unused and expand when needed. They look gorgeous and come in a "moss" colour that makes me weep. I have read reviews describing them as the best panniers ever, and I have read reviews describing them as impractical and too small. Retail price seems to be around $250.



[image via Basil]

Basil "D'azur" double-bag. Less than half the price of the Brooks roll-ups (around $100 retail), these look classic, practical and low-key. They are not compact and will stay 3-D even when empty. I have not found any reviews of these; they may be new.



[image via Rivendell]

Rivendell "TourSacks" rear rack panniers. I was so excited when Rivendell announced their plans to manufacture these, and now they are finally available to order. These don't roll up, but they will stay flat when empty. The price is around $200.



[image via Wald]



An alternative to the panniers are these Wald folding baskets for $40 per pair. But I am just not sure that these will suit the Pashley. I was hoping to try them at a local bike shop, but no one seems to have them in stock this summer.



So, what do you think? If anybody owns either of these and has any words of wisdom from experience, please chime in. Also, if there are other panniers out there I've missed that you can recommend (given my criteria), please let me know. I don't want to buy a set of panniers just for the looks, and it's so hard to know what's what based on pictures and online descriptions alone.

A 2nd look at ice screws....

I had a chance to climb on some ice this winter thatwasunique. Was to me anyway.



I had thought I had seen hard black ice previous. Uncomfortable but workable. But some of the stuff we got on in Chamonixwas damn near bullet proof. And I actually know what real "bullet proof " is by USDOJ standards. This was IIIA no problem. Ceramic plate hard. Going for a solid III or IV rating hard. Hard, cold and dry. Some times as much rock and sand, as ice.



I had thought over time Ipretty muchfigured out how to get a decent belay on ice quickly. Typically takes only a few minutes and I'm done. Nothing fancy mind you. Two screws, two tools to the hilt. Clove the screws on a good day, clip a tool out of the loop may beand were are off to the races. Nothing fancy. I can do fancy just don't chose to generally.



Only once have I failed to get an anchor...that in the upper bowl on Slipstream. Even in the old days when we already knew the screws we were using wouldn't work in some ice we'd just keep climbing in a similar situation.Never have I spent an hour trying to get a belay on ice...until this winter.



Matt (high middle of pic) above tied off screws and well deserved rock pro....finally.

Likely obvious but alpine ice isn't waterfall ice.I spent an hr we could ill afford trying to get two decent screws into the belay from where this picture is taken. You might reasonably ask why not rock gear there? And it would be a reasonable question. We had just climbed 250m of hard, (like rocks are hard)north facing ice with a foot or so of fresh snow on it and my patience was wearing thin. I actually climbed over to the rock thinking I'd be able to get something inwhere the picture is, easily. ( I seldom can't in a minute or less on rock) It was prefect granite for chrimney's sake! By the time I realised rock gear wasn't going to be easy I was determined to grovel, dig or full on excavate toget ice..any ice.

What ice that I could/should have gotten a screw into normally I was coming up dry. I'd get a bite, a couple of 1/4 turns to a start. Then the ice turned to theconsistency of riceand the screw failed to bite as the tip, plugged up with ice. Over and over again. Clean the tip and try, clean the tip and try. Nothing in the tube.

Six holes.....yes I counted. And many failed ice screw placements later I gave up (i gave up!?) ...tied the two shitty screws off, covered them with snow, reset my tools, tied them off and said "climb". Surely not not all that thrilled with the screws or the time wasted. We should have just started climbing together so I would/could have found better ice. Bad, really bad, judgement call on my part in several ways.

I had covered the anchors because I knewmy partner was not going to bepleased. With the gear or with me. Hell! I wasn't pleased and at this point was feeling like a total failure. WTF happened here? A couple of things.



The ice was really old and hard. It was shallow. I dinged 3 screws trying, I know. But and here it comes....the screwswere all new (as in brand new) BD Express screws. I had decided to make a real effort to use the BDs in the alpine on this trip. Lighter by a few grams, rack easier and all.......

Even if the BD's are a bit harder to place, which has been my experience over time, it is only alpine ice. How hard can it be? "It aint going to ever matter."



Ya, that was a dumb answer. And this was a "easy" climb. Just the fact that the ice wasn't being cooperative made it, well, not so easy.



A number of things stood out to me on this particular climb. New snow on the approach and the easy angled ice,the cold temps and the ice quality.It was hard to get takers for a trip back to that set of gullies ;)



What I did fine when I made it back the next week was...similar snow conditions. And thesame ice conditions. Likely a tiny bit warmer but that would be only a guess and if so notby much.



But I brought a majority of Grivel Helix screws this time. Fool me twice and all. Amazingly enough...every screw was sunk to thehilt first try. Nothing tied off and no time wasted on bad anchors.



To be fair. I knew where I was going, where there was good/better ice on routeand whereto avoid another dry hole. But still......if I didn't think there was a difference...a big difference..I wouldn't be writing about it. With a little help my partner was able to climb"the obvious line" that wasn't all that obvious first time around or for the localsthat were following us that day.



I have a full rack of the newest BD and Grivel screws and no horse in the race.. YMMV but that is my 2 cents from this experience.







Looking down from that same belay....great snow ledge anyway :)

Sadly, no, the beautiful and warm sunshine never touched the belay.

Holiday Gift Traditions - Reinterpreted for the Cyclist

Traditional gift-giving for the winter holidays is not so much about giving and receiving presents, as it is about the act of giving itself. Still, there are specific types of things that we tend to gift at this time of year, and these things tend to be symbolic: Light-hearted and sparkly gifts symbolise celebration. Warm and cozy gifts symbolise familial ties. Luxurious gifts symbolise good fortune in the year to come.Keeping these themes in mind, I have sought out the cycling-specific equivalents* of some popular winter holiday gifts. Not meant to be taken too seriously, but hopefully a fun read!

[left image via Velo Orange; right image via Lindt USA]

Traditional gift: Chocolate TrufflesReinterpreted for the cyclist: Classic Bicycle Bells

Holiday chocolates in festive wrappers are fun, shiny and celebratory. It is not even about the taste, but about the shiny look and the crinkling sound they make as you unwrap them. Champagne and sparkling wine is often brought into the mix to enhance this effect. How better to interpret it from a cycling perspective, than with a cheerful classic brass bell? Starting at as little as $8 (the Velo Orange version), they are a good match for the expensive holiday truffle offerings. Plus, long after the joy of the chocolates is gone and the crinkly metallic wrappers have been disposed off, the trusty bicycle bell will continue to bring good cheer to its recipient.

[left image via Ibex; right image via GAP]

Traditional gift:Socks and GlovesReinterpreted for the cyclist:100% WoolSocks and Gloves

Though there are plenty of cozy-looking, fluffy socks and gloves for sale this time of year, much of what is available tends to be made of some blend of acrylic and cotton with only a touch of wool, if at all. But it is amazing what a difference 100% wool makes in protecting your hands and feet from the cold - especially while cycling. Why not get the real deal for those you love? Surprisingly, the prices are not even that different: the Ibex"Knitty Gritty" gloves (100% wool) are $20, whereas the Gap "Knit Gloves" (100% acrylic) are $14.50. Both are available in a cheerful red colour, but the wool version will keep the cyclist happy through the winter months.

[left image viaDZ Nuts; right image viaBath & Body Works]

Traditional gift:Fragrance and Bath ProductsReinterpreted for the cyclist:Fancy Chamois Creams

A gift of a soothing bath experience is easily translatable to a gift of a soothing cycling experience. Though many are embarrassed to discuss this, chamois creams can be extremely useful in preventing chafing and infection on some of our most cherished body partsduring long rides. Many of them have herbal ingredients that smell especially festive for the holiday season, and the packaging of the new ladies' version of DZ Nuts is quite gift-appropriate as well. At $20 per tube, it's a good equivalent to most mid-range body lotions and bath products.

[leftimage viaDutch Bike Seattle; right image via Harry and David]

Traditional gift:The Gourmet Food BasketReinterpreted for the cyclist:The Bicycle Basket

Nothing puts a smile on people's face like the traditional bicycle basket. It's adorable, it's extremely practical, and maybe, just maybe it will make motorists more kindly disposed towards the cyclist when they see it. There is something about baskets - be they for picnics, for mushroom-picking, or for cycling, that evokes images of the good life, and an innocent hope that things can be nicer, simpler, and more fun in the future. Those are pleasant thoughts to have during the winter holidays. And after all - here is no reason why the food basket and the bicycle basket gifts can't be combined. It would be fun to fill a wicker bicycle basket with the gift recipient's favourite treats. Prices vary in the $30-60 range.

[left image viaBicycle Quarterly; right image viaConde Nast]

Traditional gift:The Magazine SubscriptionReinterpreted for the cyclist:The Bicycle Magazine Subscription

Magazine subscriptions make good gifts for the winter holidays, because they reinforce the yearly cycle and the idea that something new and exciting will start to happen in the new year. Plus, it is not just a one-off gift: the recipient will continue to receive a little something throughout the year that will remind them of the person who gave them the gift. There are many bicycle magazines on the scene nowadays, including Momentum for those interested in transportation cycling, Bicycling for those interested in racing, and, my favourite, Bicycle Quarterly, for those interested in bicycle touring. Prices for subscriptions in the $20-30 range.

[left image via Brooks England; right image via J. Crew]

Traditional gift:The Cashmere SweaterReinterpreted for the cyclist:The Leather Saddle

Entering the territory of the more expensive gifts, one traditional one is the classic cashmere sweater. So beautiful, so luxurious, so delicate and light... and so easily destroyed by red wine spillage, or your adorably clingy cat. The leather saddle communicates the same ideas of luxury, quality, good taste and tradition - except it is infinitely more durable, particularly for the cyclist. A gift that is not only luxurious, but will last and can be used daily, is truly a gift to remember. The retail price of the Brooks saddle pictured above is $99 - just like the cashmere cardigan from J. Crew.



[left image via Mercian Cycles; right image via Tiffany &Co.]

Traditional gift:Heirloom JewelryReinterpreted for the cyclist:The Custom Handbuilt Bicycle

If expensive jewelry is to be given, the winter holidays are a traditional time for it. The idea is that jewelry is "forever" and the holidays are a good time to reaffirm that sentiment and commitment. The recipient of the jewel will wear it close to them - maybe even daily - and think of their special relationship to the gift-giver in the year to come, and hopefully all the years thereafter. A fine handbuilt bicycle frame can communicate the same sentiment to the person who is truly crazy about bicycles. Not only is it bound to be a very cherished possession, but the cyclist will likely ride it frequently and enjoy it immensely. Plus, if the bicycle is lugged, their filigreed forms are not dissimilar from actual jewels. Like the Tiffany's diamond earrings above (the .22 carat version), the stunning Mercian frame is priced at around $1,000.

Regardless of which holidays you celebrate (for those in the "Christmas and Hannukah" camp, the holidays stretch out for an entire month this year!), I hope you find them fun and enjoyable. And if any of these gift ideas are of interest, there is no harm in accidentally leaving your laptop open where your loved ones can see it, now is there?... They might even get the hint!

[* The products pictured here are not endorsements, paid adverts or part of any promotion]

Fall at last

Between Thursday and Friday we had over an inch of rain, and temperatures dropped, from the previous sweltering conditions down to the chilly 50s. (That would be "the chilly area between 10° and 15°" for my Celcius friends.)

We'll be at Homestead Hollow with our handmade soap again the first weekend in November, so keep your fingers crossed that it won't rain on us then. The second weekend we'll be at Christmas Village in downtown Birmingham (and won't care if it rains or not since it's indoors).

Jasmine is the one enjoying the cooler weather the most. It's hard being a Great Pyrenees in the Alabama heat, I guess. She loves winter, and is ten times more playful when she can cavort without getting so hot. She's been exploring in the woods again, and has found a green baby hoodie, a plastic soda bottle, and a piece of ceramic corn. (It goes with the ceramic tomato and the ceramic green pepper that she's already brought us.)

Cheese Tasting in Amsterdam

I met up with a very old friend (we go back 15-20 years) last Sunday—let’s call her Lens, she is visiting Amsterdam together with her hubs. Amsterdam is their last stop after their Mediterranean cruise before flying back to Manila. MadamE and her hubs were there as well because they are also mutual friends—hey, we live in a small world after all, so naturally, us the local residents of this very flat land did the mandatory Amsterdam tour.



Midway through our itinerary, we came upon the ‘De Kaaskelder’ (The Cheese Cellar) on the Flower Market offering cheese tasting. If you are visiting Amsterdam, this is one of the best and easiest places to do some cheese tasting before buying. We’ve probably tried every cheese on display and we’ve decided to buy the rookkaas (smoked cheese) to eat while walking. The friendly guy in the shop sliced the cheese for us so we can eat them right away. Lens bought a couple cheeses as well.



It is not hard to miss the De Kaaskelder (The Cheese Cellar) on the Bloemenmarkt (Flower Market) in Amsterdam. The cheese shop is housed in a historical building, the VOC Pakhuis (warehouse) circa 1625 of the trading company VOC-Dutch East India Company, the first multinational company in the world.



Cheese ladies at work.



Cheese tasting - aged cow cheese, with herbs, with tomato, goat version and more.



Yummy smoked cheese (rookkaas) in three varieties: cow, goat and with herbs and garlic



More cheeses!



Cheeses are usually eaten together with jam, honey and mustard. Northern Europeans normally eat it with mustard while Southern Europeans eat it with jam or honey. I’m not much of a sweet tooth type so naturally I prefer mustard to go with it and of course with a nice glass of dry red wine. Heerlijk.



Tip: Check out Limburg’s spicy mustard with grains, they are soooo yummy and you can buy them at any Dutch supermarket (I normally buy mine at Plus).



Here we are near the hip Jordaan district along the famous Amsterdam canal belt (soon to be UNESCO world heritage site).



Lovely canal in Jordaan.



Visit Period: September

More on Shells....

I am likely the last person to test shell garments. I admittedly don't use shell garmentsin my own climbing very often. More likely something I would use skiing on the lifts or in the back country or for intentionally stripped down quick ascents in winter.



The biggest reason I don't use shells climbing generally is I intentionally try to climb in good weather. If that isn't possible I prefer cold weather where the moisture that I do see is snow and not rain.

If nothing else this mostly miserabletrip reminded me of the importance,"stay dry to stay warm".



Doug climbing in the Mountain Hardware DRYSTEIN and a NWAlpine hoody





So as I sat on a picnic table on day one of the "shell shoot out" and the rainconstant and seemingly never endingyou can imagine my excitement to get this demo over with. If it weren't for the amount of planning by all involved andtwo of my climbing partners willing totake the time to help me out it wouldn't have gotten done. A hearty thanks to all!



To do this test and get as much feed back as possible we sorted out base layers and pants so that all of use were using a similar set up.



Top and bottom base Layers were Cabela's E.C.W.C.SThermal Zone Polartec Power Dry built of three different Polartec fabrics.



Next up were the excellent soft shell climbing pants and lwt pile Hoodies from NWAlpine.



We had60g Primaloft andCorelofthoodies along one each fromArcteryx, the Atom Lt,from RAB, the Xenon and from Brooks Range CirroHoody.



Expecting to eventually be high on Rainier we also brought RAB Infinitydown jackets. They were intentionally part of Doug's and my sleeping system as were using the Feathered Friends Vireo. I got a chuckle when we all climbed into the tent the second night. Weand all the gear were wetand the temps were dropping. Lee pulled on his Infinityand snuggled up in a F.F's Swallow.



I'll be doing follow up blogs on all the gear I mentioned above.



For the shells? It became obviouson day one that some of the newestsoft shell technologyI hadwanted to testfor breathability againstthe neweststretch water proofgear wasn't going to happen.



It was simply too wet. Too much rain, with a measured 2" on day one and we had yet to leave the parking lot. Other hard shells I wanted to take didn't show up in time. So we'll have to do the shell test again I suspect. And a serious look at soft shells isobvious one as well.



The soft shell topsstayed in the truck on this one and rightfully so to be fair.







Here are the jackets we did take in:



Outdoor Reasearch's Axiom jacket cut from a stretch water proof breathable version of *Gore-Tex’s Active Shell* 13.7oz Large



Westcomb's APOC jacket cut from Polartec's stretch waterproof breathable *NeoShell* 17.4oz XL



Marmot's HYPER jacket cut from stretch waterproof breathable technology, *MemBrain® Strata 100% Nylon Stretch* 13.4oz XL



Mountain Hardware's DRYSTEIN jacket cut from their stretch, water proof, breathable *Dry Q Elite* 18.7 oz XL



RAB's Neo Stretch Jacket cut from Polartec's stretch waterproof breathable *NeoShell* and 18.6oz XL



Day one. Short day just getting organized and trying to figure out the weather window on Rainier. We finally gave up on that and just decided to test gear and if possible get a little climbing in on a tiny bit of snow and ice on Observation Rock if we could stay dry and motivated through the weekend. All of us just picked out what ever garments we thought appropriate that day for setting up the big "base camp" style tent, and dinner.



Doug and Igravitated to the RAB Infinitydown jackets. Lee had brought his own Goretex down jacket. Even in the rain all three were cozy setting up our "base camp", sorting gear and getting organized. The RAB InfinityisPertex® Quantum 10D ultra lightand was never intended to be a rain jacket.



But in this case it worked much better than expected. From this experience the RAB Infinity Endurance is the next down jacket I'll own.



More here on Pertex:



http://www.pertex.com/



I had thought we all would have jumped on the 60g synthetics right away. I knew better and still went for the down. More on that later.



Doug grabbed the Mountain Hardware DRYSTEIN. Lee theOutdoor Reasearch AXIOM. And me, having first dibs out of the bunch had already grabbed the Marmot HYPER.



As much as I like the Hyper after the first 4 hours in the rain on day two I have to confess it is not in the same league as the other three fabrics we used. With ice water running down my shoulder blades I reluctantly acknowledged my mistake and gave up on the Hyper and switched to mystand, Westcomb's APOC in Neoshell.



The point was clearly made. In these conditions you needed serious rain gear. If you were hunkered down and not having to move, commercial fishing rain gear would have beenmore appropriate



Now it was time to see if I could dry out wearing a garment made of Neoshell. Just how breathable is Neoshell?Remember we were all in soft shell pants.Somy lower body was damp and my upper layer of Cabella's E.C.W.C.S now wet before I changed jackets. By the time I turned in that evening everything was still damp but I was warm and drying out on top. Only my socks and boots were still truly wet...from the water running down my legs.



My soft shell pants had seen a lot of use comparedto the shiny new NWAlpine pants Lee and Doug were using. Because of the new DWR coatings on their pants they stayed drier and it showed.No water in their boots! Water still beaded up on their pants andclearly it did not on mine. Pays to remember you need to re-treat soft shells on a regular basis if you want to maintain the water resistance.

I guess it should be no surprise, but it wasfor me...again.



These are the real players from what I have seen to date.

Reliable shell gear that is stretchy, breathable and truly water proof came down to this:





*Gore-Tex’s Active Shell*





*Polartec's NeoShell*





*Mountain Hardware'sDry Q Elite*







More to come on the subtle differences we could perceive using them.