Most of this stuff is the same ice or rock. Will is known for ice but it is worth a few minutes to read his recent thoughts and the resulting discussion if you haven't already. Loved the reality check and the common sense approach.
http://willgadd.com/anchor-clipping/
http://willgadd.com/anchor-clipping-2/
"Most of the people proposing various strategies have simply not gone out and tested their strategies. I have. Bluntly, until someone experiences the violent forces and speed of high fall-factor falls I just don't think he or she really has an informed opinion on this topic"
My general thought isthis:
"There are very few “absolutes” in climbing systems..."
Understanding the dynamics and the systems we are using is what I think is important and more than a penny of simple common sense added to the problem each time. I can count the number of times I have clipped straightinto the anchor. It aint many.
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