Sunday, August 31, 2014
Wednesday, August 27, 2014
Winter Layers?
This is a post from Feb of '10 . But as the season is just getting started for the winter of '11/'12, thought it worth reposting with a few updates from what I have learned over the last two winters.
Winter layers?
(or in this case lack of layers)
If you have seen this all before skip down to "layer ONE".
I get to spendtimeice climbing around Banff and on the Icefield's Parkway in Alberta Canada. Places I have climbed and skied in most winters for years. Last winter I was lucky enough to spend a few months in Chamonix.
Besides the obvious high quality ice climbing I alwayslook forward to field testing some new (for me anyway) pieces of clothing and ideas on cold weather use.
But before I get to what I have learned in the last two years, let me back up a bit and tell you what I have used in years previously and have been happy with generally.
The coldest temps we would actually climb in hover around -25/-30C (-22F). Anything colder and I retreat to a shelter, hot springs and good food. Not uncommon to see
+10C (50F) on calm days in the sun on sheltered ice climbs.
Base layers?
Generally Merino wool or Capilene, two piece set ups. Some times even these will get layered.
Mid layer/insulation ?
Pile. Pick your weight and material but generally some sort of pile gear. Pile pants and pile shirts or sweaters.
Outer layer/ protection?
Early on it was nylon shells, then Goretex and then Shoeller style soft shells of wool/spandex (25 years ago) and more recently synthetics (Shoeller and Polartec fabrics) with real 4 way stretch.
Boots were singles and dbls. Often times with Supergators on the singles and even the dbls when required.
Gloves/Mitts?
Old stand-bys were boiled wool Dachsteins with/without over mitts. My favorite were Dachsteins and Helly Hansen over mitts and when required a foam pad between the layers to keep your hands from getting too beat up with straight shafted tools. Dachstein gloves had their place as well...but generally considered a luxury. Goretex shelled gauntlet gloves with thick pile liner came next and have remained a standard with leashed tools.
Leashed tools? Leashless tools? Here is where much of the info I am relating changes drastically. Tools te newest BD Cobra and Fusion or the Petzl Nomic and Quarks have in many ways redefined what we use for clothing on ice/mixed climbs. Gear that easily works leashless will NOT be warm enough, in my experience, for leashed climbing.
OK..back to the clothing systems.
An old saying I heard as a kid was, "Eskimos never sweat." The thought behind that? It was just too cold in an Arctic environment to ever risk getting wet, soaking your insulation and then having that insulation freeze. Makes sense, but how do you ever get anything done and not sweat if you are working hard and trying to climb fast?
(I'm about to repeat info now that can be better understood by reading Mark Twight's and Will Gadd's ice climbing/technique books)
Obviously you'll sweat on the approach unless you really back off the pace. I don't do approaches longer than just a few minutes in my climbing upper layer. I dress really lightly on the top layer for the walk in and then dry off (while not getting chilled) at the base of the climbing. That generally means I bring an extra top layer if the approach is long.
To stay dry on the climbI use a belay sweater/jacket (depending on insulation required by the temps) to let my body heat dry me off and keep me warm while drying out at the belay if I have broken a sweat climbing.
The trick here is to make sure your clothing system will dry out with body heat alone. One wrong layer and the system may not work efficiently. Better yet climb with a light enough and breathable enough set of clothing that you don't wet your body or gear on anything but the hardest leads. It is a tough balancing act.
Light enough...breathable enough?
Four words that are saying a lot! You need to push the definition of both imo.
I switched a few years ago to all Shoeller style clothing. Which if you look at much of what is available today for cutting edge fabrics here in the US is actually a Polartec product. But early on unbelieving on just how far I really needed to go I bought all the gear in a insulated form.I have worn out a set of both over time. And I still love both of them for climbing. For everything but the very coldest weather (below -10C) I find the insulatedsoft shellsto be too much insulation and not breathable enough.
That was then () ...and it may still be true. But last winter at the OR show in Salt Lake City, there were several new fabrics that were getting a buzz. I was lucky enough to get a Neoshell Westcomb Apoc jacket to try out. PreviousI had spentyears in hard shell Goretex garmentsand finally abandoned them itforwinter climbing. Neoshell was the first of the "modern shells" I have been able to use.
And by most accounts Neoshellis what all the rest of the new fabricsare being judged by if the early reports are accurate.
I am currently testing some of the newestvariations on that idea from Polartec. And it would seem that we might actually have more breathable and more water repellant soft shell options available soon. But I'll report what I do find if there is a significant change.
So why too much? Too heavy physically, too warm and not breathable enough.
OK, you ask, "WTF, Dane?" "That is a $400 piece of kit (Gamma MX Hoody) you encouraged me to buy last year and now you are telling me it is rubbish?...too warm?...too heavy?"
This year Arcteryx has changed the material on the Gamma MX Hoody and is offering an alternative to that technology in the Venta MX Hoody. Both are suppose to be more breathable. Patagonia is there as well using Polartec fabrics. Mountain Hardware, Eddie Bauer and Outdoor Reasearch and even Cabella's have joined the game as well.
All with one idea, to stay warm you must stay dry.
Last year I thought the Gamma MX hoody would be the one piece of clothing I would always take on alpine/ice routes. Last winter I didn't use the Gamma MX at all climbing, but did for one day of skiing in the Alps. So, yes it is a big change for me as well. Now I am saying it is too much? Yes....but don't throw it away just yet :)
You need to go back to the idea that "cool muscles work more efficiently".
Mind you it might take you a bit of effort to find out just how "cool" you are willing to work at to make this all work. That might include a trip where you dress too light and freeze your ass off to find out just how "cool" you'll want to be :) I'd suggest you make that trip, a low risk, high energy event. If you blow it bad on the clothing combos at least movement will generally keep you warm. You need to iron out your system in a fairly controlled environment.
The rewards are worth the risk imo. But to be sure, blow these combinations in a big way and cold injury is almost certain or even death will be the end result. I have used the system at a fine edge half a dozen times now and I had significant performance and recovery break through each time. I also look back and thank my lucky stars that there was no "incident" on those climbs that could have easily precipitated a disaster. An unplanned night out in bad weather while cutting it close on gear can be more than just uncomfortable.
The results of 24 unplanned hrs out in 10F temps? And a full year of recovery.
Here are my current thoughts on winter clothing systems.Limit the layers. Yes, limit the layers! The first picture in this post is me climbing early in my career in mostly wool, with temps rapidly going to -40 as the sun went down. It was pretty miserable at the time and to be honest a little scary. I had never been in such temps and that exposed before.
But a couple of things made a big difference. I was mobile, light layers made that possible. I was dry internally because the clothing breathed well and so I stayed warm if I kept moving. Funny now because I realised as I typed this morning that the clothing pictured there (circa 1973) would be a perfect set up for leashless climbing now in very cold temps...say -20C but not at -40C :)
So limit the layers and stay mobile. Easy to do now with modern clothing.
Layer ONE:
I am using a R1 Hoody inner layer. MEC makes R1 tops and bottoms for something like $60 retail. Or you can buy Patagonia's for $150. Same exact material and in several ways the MEC clothing is better designed imo. Now there is a easy decision for price point. Buy I do like the detailing offered by the R1. I want to be comfortable and the R1s details like a long cut, easily tucked in and off the face zipper make a difference to me. Not a $100 difference mind you as I'll find the R1 on sale before paying retail.
Yes, just the R1 and nothing between it and my skin. Although my lowers are actually Costco longs...almost expedition weight but some brand name called "Paradox". The R1 seems to be just a bit much on my legs and I lose some mobility compared to the Paradox lowers which seem to slide in the outer shell pants I am using easier. Last winter in the Alps on the-20C days I would use two layers of the Paradox longs and lwt soft shell pant. So the system isn't perfect. I'd also add a Merino wool hoody from Sherpa Adventure Gear under my R1 on the really cold days. But even when adding layers for more warmth in the Alps I know the material I was using would breath.
This newtechnology (again a Polartec concept) Cabela's E.C.W.C.S Thermal Zone® Polartec® Power Dry® might be much better yet than simply dbl layering as I have done in the past to gain warmth.
This technology with a hood would be hard to beat.
Generation III Extended Cold Weather Clothing System (GEN III ECWCS) from PEO Soldier on Vimeo.
It shouldn't be a huge surprise that Mark Twight has his design fingers in the US Military'scurrent cold weather systems,
Layer TWO:
That depends on the outside temps and the level of aerobic action I expect.
In the past I have used the Eddie Bauer Front Point jacket..it is a combo hard shell and soft shell . Very water resistant (my top was dry in a soaking waterfall that went straight through my pants and filled my boots to the brim) and very breathable. I am highly impressed with the details of this garment and the combo of materials used. A surprising and almost immediate favorite for cold technical climbing. And now discontinued.
But here is where the newest fabricsget interesting. There are now several offerings from Polartec that are soft shell and "hard" shells that might well replace what I thought was a good use of the fabric technology in the EB Front Point.
Patagonia is offering a newPower Shield Pro product, Marmot is offering a Power Shield '02. That is just touching the surface as Mountain Hardware is in the game as is Outdoor Reasearch and Arc'teryx.
We can thank our tax dollarsand the US miitary for testing much of this gear and the budgets that enabled Polartec and others to do the research and development.
-OR-
Arcteryx Atom Lt Hoody....lightly insulated shell with stretch vented sides and under the arms. Again a surprise, water resistant as well but not tested to any extreme yet. Very warm for its weight and thickness but useful in the right temps (cold) for hard climbing because the stretch side panels and insulated body breath so well.
Worth noting that I have now cut one full layer from the previous suggestions from even last year's system. Insulation is used as required in the base layer and in the outer layer. And most manufactures are now making something similar.
Patagonia's Nano series is another example. I use a Nano puff to layer over my Atom light in many cold weather instances. Mtn Hardware has one as well with the stretch side panels . But there is no separate insulation layer short of the belay sweater (like how I am using the Nano Puff) and a actual belay jacket. The real insulation is in layer THREE where the insulation can EASILY be added or just as likely removed to keep you dry and mobile.
For my pants I have been using the Arcteryx Gamma Lt. for three winters now. I did add a set of grommets to use them as a pant gaiter. And no one more surprised than me that a set of generic long johns and a Gamma Lt. would be good enough to keep me warm and toasty from -10C to well above freezing and still breath enough on the "death marches" while toiling and dripping in in sweat. Only disadvantages I see are they aren't very durable and the lower left leg could be more tapered if my crampon "wear" is any indication.
Layer THREE:
A Belay jacket chosen for the degree of warmth required and how much drying will be required.
Listed in amount of warmth is required. Warm temps to cold and how much moisture I expect:
Mountain Hardware Compressor Hoody (Primaloft 1)
*shown here in combo with the Atom Lt @ -20C in the shade* (lots of other high qulaity jackets in this catagory now)
I use this combo now with a Arcteryx Atom SV and have been happy with it to -20C as well.
Any of these trhee will offer even more warmth if required
Narrona Hooded Down
Arcteryx Duelly
Eddie Bauer XV
As a system that is it...THREE... layers total. And one generally will be in the pack or going in and out of the pack. Only times I have found myself climbing continuously in all three layerson my upper body last winter I was either very tired or more likely it was dark and I was tired.
Staying hydrated and your food intake up as required has not been mentioned. But the fastest way to get frost bite is get dehydrated. Fastest way to get tired and stat moving slowly is not eat enough. You need to manage your clothing systemand what you east and drink.
Gloves and boots?
Maintaining your mobility, cutting down on weight by doing so allows you to move faster. You can then use lighter weight boots and gloves and still stay equally as warm or warmer while moving faster with less effort! Add the advantages of leashless tools and the differences of what you can get away with for a glove system while still being comfortable is simply...amazing.
You have to remember it is a SYSTEM. If required I could carry and use both layer TWO pieces together for extra warmth. I'll do another post and describe the boot and glove systems I am using with this clothing combo. Scarpa and La Sportiva for boots and Outdoor Research and Mtn Hardware for gloves cover the brand names here for me currently.
But there are new players here as well, Salewa, Mammut andArcteryx again. But it is hard to find bad gear these days. Much easier to use the right gear in the wrong place though. I think the newest materials and designs will sort themselves out in the next winter or two and much of this will become common knowledge. Right now it is hard to keep track as there is so much new gear and new applications it is hard to keep track.....I can't.
Bottom line to all this and thefield testing? I'm climbingharder and faster with less effort and less clothes and in more comfort than ever before. Huge success for me.
I think you find a similar result.
An after thought..
A long time climbing buddy who on rare occasion reads the blog busted on me for listing all the brand names I use. I search out the best gear for my own use and buy it at retail. No one giving this stuff to me. But that doesn't make it the best gear for your use. I list the manufacturers simply so you can make direct comparison for your own benefit.
Winter layers?
(or in this case lack of layers)
If you have seen this all before skip down to "layer ONE".
I get to spendtimeice climbing around Banff and on the Icefield's Parkway in Alberta Canada. Places I have climbed and skied in most winters for years. Last winter I was lucky enough to spend a few months in Chamonix.
Besides the obvious high quality ice climbing I alwayslook forward to field testing some new (for me anyway) pieces of clothing and ideas on cold weather use.
But before I get to what I have learned in the last two years, let me back up a bit and tell you what I have used in years previously and have been happy with generally.
The coldest temps we would actually climb in hover around -25/-30C (-22F). Anything colder and I retreat to a shelter, hot springs and good food. Not uncommon to see
+10C (50F) on calm days in the sun on sheltered ice climbs.
Base layers?
Generally Merino wool or Capilene, two piece set ups. Some times even these will get layered.
Mid layer/insulation ?
Pile. Pick your weight and material but generally some sort of pile gear. Pile pants and pile shirts or sweaters.
Outer layer/ protection?
Early on it was nylon shells, then Goretex and then Shoeller style soft shells of wool/spandex (25 years ago) and more recently synthetics (Shoeller and Polartec fabrics) with real 4 way stretch.
Boots were singles and dbls. Often times with Supergators on the singles and even the dbls when required.
Gloves/Mitts?
Old stand-bys were boiled wool Dachsteins with/without over mitts. My favorite were Dachsteins and Helly Hansen over mitts and when required a foam pad between the layers to keep your hands from getting too beat up with straight shafted tools. Dachstein gloves had their place as well...but generally considered a luxury. Goretex shelled gauntlet gloves with thick pile liner came next and have remained a standard with leashed tools.
Leashed tools? Leashless tools? Here is where much of the info I am relating changes drastically. Tools te newest BD Cobra and Fusion or the Petzl Nomic and Quarks have in many ways redefined what we use for clothing on ice/mixed climbs. Gear that easily works leashless will NOT be warm enough, in my experience, for leashed climbing.
OK..back to the clothing systems.
An old saying I heard as a kid was, "Eskimos never sweat." The thought behind that? It was just too cold in an Arctic environment to ever risk getting wet, soaking your insulation and then having that insulation freeze. Makes sense, but how do you ever get anything done and not sweat if you are working hard and trying to climb fast?
(I'm about to repeat info now that can be better understood by reading Mark Twight's and Will Gadd's ice climbing/technique books)
Obviously you'll sweat on the approach unless you really back off the pace. I don't do approaches longer than just a few minutes in my climbing upper layer. I dress really lightly on the top layer for the walk in and then dry off (while not getting chilled) at the base of the climbing. That generally means I bring an extra top layer if the approach is long.
To stay dry on the climbI use a belay sweater/jacket (depending on insulation required by the temps) to let my body heat dry me off and keep me warm while drying out at the belay if I have broken a sweat climbing.
The trick here is to make sure your clothing system will dry out with body heat alone. One wrong layer and the system may not work efficiently. Better yet climb with a light enough and breathable enough set of clothing that you don't wet your body or gear on anything but the hardest leads. It is a tough balancing act.
Light enough...breathable enough?
Four words that are saying a lot! You need to push the definition of both imo.
I switched a few years ago to all Shoeller style clothing. Which if you look at much of what is available today for cutting edge fabrics here in the US is actually a Polartec product. But early on unbelieving on just how far I really needed to go I bought all the gear in a insulated form.I have worn out a set of both over time. And I still love both of them for climbing. For everything but the very coldest weather (below -10C) I find the insulatedsoft shellsto be too much insulation and not breathable enough.
That was then () ...and it may still be true. But last winter at the OR show in Salt Lake City, there were several new fabrics that were getting a buzz. I was lucky enough to get a Neoshell Westcomb Apoc jacket to try out. PreviousI had spentyears in hard shell Goretex garmentsand finally abandoned them itforwinter climbing. Neoshell was the first of the "modern shells" I have been able to use.
And by most accounts Neoshellis what all the rest of the new fabricsare being judged by if the early reports are accurate.
I am currently testing some of the newestvariations on that idea from Polartec. And it would seem that we might actually have more breathable and more water repellant soft shell options available soon. But I'll report what I do find if there is a significant change.
So why too much? Too heavy physically, too warm and not breathable enough.
OK, you ask, "WTF, Dane?" "That is a $400 piece of kit (Gamma MX Hoody) you encouraged me to buy last year and now you are telling me it is rubbish?...too warm?...too heavy?"
This year Arcteryx has changed the material on the Gamma MX Hoody and is offering an alternative to that technology in the Venta MX Hoody. Both are suppose to be more breathable. Patagonia is there as well using Polartec fabrics. Mountain Hardware, Eddie Bauer and Outdoor Reasearch and even Cabella's have joined the game as well.
All with one idea, to stay warm you must stay dry.
Last year I thought the Gamma MX hoody would be the one piece of clothing I would always take on alpine/ice routes. Last winter I didn't use the Gamma MX at all climbing, but did for one day of skiing in the Alps. So, yes it is a big change for me as well. Now I am saying it is too much? Yes....but don't throw it away just yet :)
You need to go back to the idea that "cool muscles work more efficiently".
Mind you it might take you a bit of effort to find out just how "cool" you are willing to work at to make this all work. That might include a trip where you dress too light and freeze your ass off to find out just how "cool" you'll want to be :) I'd suggest you make that trip, a low risk, high energy event. If you blow it bad on the clothing combos at least movement will generally keep you warm. You need to iron out your system in a fairly controlled environment.
The rewards are worth the risk imo. But to be sure, blow these combinations in a big way and cold injury is almost certain or even death will be the end result. I have used the system at a fine edge half a dozen times now and I had significant performance and recovery break through each time. I also look back and thank my lucky stars that there was no "incident" on those climbs that could have easily precipitated a disaster. An unplanned night out in bad weather while cutting it close on gear can be more than just uncomfortable.
The results of 24 unplanned hrs out in 10F temps? And a full year of recovery.
Here are my current thoughts on winter clothing systems.Limit the layers. Yes, limit the layers! The first picture in this post is me climbing early in my career in mostly wool, with temps rapidly going to -40 as the sun went down. It was pretty miserable at the time and to be honest a little scary. I had never been in such temps and that exposed before.
But a couple of things made a big difference. I was mobile, light layers made that possible. I was dry internally because the clothing breathed well and so I stayed warm if I kept moving. Funny now because I realised as I typed this morning that the clothing pictured there (circa 1973) would be a perfect set up for leashless climbing now in very cold temps...say -20C but not at -40C :)
So limit the layers and stay mobile. Easy to do now with modern clothing.
Layer ONE:
I am using a R1 Hoody inner layer. MEC makes R1 tops and bottoms for something like $60 retail. Or you can buy Patagonia's for $150. Same exact material and in several ways the MEC clothing is better designed imo. Now there is a easy decision for price point. Buy I do like the detailing offered by the R1. I want to be comfortable and the R1s details like a long cut, easily tucked in and off the face zipper make a difference to me. Not a $100 difference mind you as I'll find the R1 on sale before paying retail.
Yes, just the R1 and nothing between it and my skin. Although my lowers are actually Costco longs...almost expedition weight but some brand name called "Paradox". The R1 seems to be just a bit much on my legs and I lose some mobility compared to the Paradox lowers which seem to slide in the outer shell pants I am using easier. Last winter in the Alps on the-20C days I would use two layers of the Paradox longs and lwt soft shell pant. So the system isn't perfect. I'd also add a Merino wool hoody from Sherpa Adventure Gear under my R1 on the really cold days. But even when adding layers for more warmth in the Alps I know the material I was using would breath.
This newtechnology (again a Polartec concept) Cabela's E.C.W.C.S Thermal Zone® Polartec® Power Dry® might be much better yet than simply dbl layering as I have done in the past to gain warmth.
This technology with a hood would be hard to beat.
Generation III Extended Cold Weather Clothing System (GEN III ECWCS) from PEO Soldier on Vimeo.
It shouldn't be a huge surprise that Mark Twight has his design fingers in the US Military'scurrent cold weather systems,
Layer TWO:
That depends on the outside temps and the level of aerobic action I expect.
In the past I have used the Eddie Bauer Front Point jacket..it is a combo hard shell and soft shell . Very water resistant (my top was dry in a soaking waterfall that went straight through my pants and filled my boots to the brim) and very breathable. I am highly impressed with the details of this garment and the combo of materials used. A surprising and almost immediate favorite for cold technical climbing. And now discontinued.
But here is where the newest fabricsget interesting. There are now several offerings from Polartec that are soft shell and "hard" shells that might well replace what I thought was a good use of the fabric technology in the EB Front Point.
Patagonia is offering a newPower Shield Pro product, Marmot is offering a Power Shield '02. That is just touching the surface as Mountain Hardware is in the game as is Outdoor Reasearch and Arc'teryx.
We can thank our tax dollarsand the US miitary for testing much of this gear and the budgets that enabled Polartec and others to do the research and development.
-OR-
Arcteryx Atom Lt Hoody....lightly insulated shell with stretch vented sides and under the arms. Again a surprise, water resistant as well but not tested to any extreme yet. Very warm for its weight and thickness but useful in the right temps (cold) for hard climbing because the stretch side panels and insulated body breath so well.
Worth noting that I have now cut one full layer from the previous suggestions from even last year's system. Insulation is used as required in the base layer and in the outer layer. And most manufactures are now making something similar.
Patagonia's Nano series is another example. I use a Nano puff to layer over my Atom light in many cold weather instances. Mtn Hardware has one as well with the stretch side panels . But there is no separate insulation layer short of the belay sweater (like how I am using the Nano Puff) and a actual belay jacket. The real insulation is in layer THREE where the insulation can EASILY be added or just as likely removed to keep you dry and mobile.
For my pants I have been using the Arcteryx Gamma Lt. for three winters now. I did add a set of grommets to use them as a pant gaiter. And no one more surprised than me that a set of generic long johns and a Gamma Lt. would be good enough to keep me warm and toasty from -10C to well above freezing and still breath enough on the "death marches" while toiling and dripping in in sweat. Only disadvantages I see are they aren't very durable and the lower left leg could be more tapered if my crampon "wear" is any indication.
Layer THREE:
A Belay jacket chosen for the degree of warmth required and how much drying will be required.
Listed in amount of warmth is required. Warm temps to cold and how much moisture I expect:
Mountain Hardware Compressor Hoody (Primaloft 1)
*shown here in combo with the Atom Lt @ -20C in the shade* (lots of other high qulaity jackets in this catagory now)
I use this combo now with a Arcteryx Atom SV and have been happy with it to -20C as well.
Any of these trhee will offer even more warmth if required
Narrona Hooded Down
Arcteryx Duelly
Eddie Bauer XV
As a system that is it...THREE... layers total. And one generally will be in the pack or going in and out of the pack. Only times I have found myself climbing continuously in all three layerson my upper body last winter I was either very tired or more likely it was dark and I was tired.
Staying hydrated and your food intake up as required has not been mentioned. But the fastest way to get frost bite is get dehydrated. Fastest way to get tired and stat moving slowly is not eat enough. You need to manage your clothing systemand what you east and drink.
Gloves and boots?
Maintaining your mobility, cutting down on weight by doing so allows you to move faster. You can then use lighter weight boots and gloves and still stay equally as warm or warmer while moving faster with less effort! Add the advantages of leashless tools and the differences of what you can get away with for a glove system while still being comfortable is simply...amazing.
You have to remember it is a SYSTEM. If required I could carry and use both layer TWO pieces together for extra warmth. I'll do another post and describe the boot and glove systems I am using with this clothing combo. Scarpa and La Sportiva for boots and Outdoor Research and Mtn Hardware for gloves cover the brand names here for me currently.
But there are new players here as well, Salewa, Mammut andArcteryx again. But it is hard to find bad gear these days. Much easier to use the right gear in the wrong place though. I think the newest materials and designs will sort themselves out in the next winter or two and much of this will become common knowledge. Right now it is hard to keep track as there is so much new gear and new applications it is hard to keep track.....I can't.
Bottom line to all this and thefield testing? I'm climbingharder and faster with less effort and less clothes and in more comfort than ever before. Huge success for me.
I think you find a similar result.
An after thought..
A long time climbing buddy who on rare occasion reads the blog busted on me for listing all the brand names I use. I search out the best gear for my own use and buy it at retail. No one giving this stuff to me. But that doesn't make it the best gear for your use. I list the manufacturers simply so you can make direct comparison for your own benefit.
Tuesday, August 26, 2014
Off to Porto!
Ola! I am going on a solo trip to Porto, Portugal... in just a few hours.
Flag and Coat of Arms of Porto.
The fiery flag of Portugal
Looking forward to spending my Easter there.
Flag and Coat of Arms of Porto.
The fiery flag of Portugal
Looking forward to spending my Easter there.
Fishing Pier at Myrtle Beach State Park
I think fishing piers are kind of like boardwalks. They may not scream summer in quite the same way, but they do seem to have the same air of relaxation about them. They seem to say, "pull up a seat and stay awhile". The pier at the State Park was one of the nicest ones we have seen at a State Park.
There are benches to sit at and fish, or just watch the water. The pier has places to measure and clean your fish. And there are people both young and old and everywhere in between. I could sit and people watch here for hours and hours and hours.
The view is not too shabby either!
I like this one much better though because you can't see the buildings as much.
I'm going to miss this place when we leave here.
Living the life in SC!
Sunday, August 24, 2014
Ice season '10/11 begins
The warm months have come and gone.I've spent most of the year running countless miles, mostly on the scenic 75+ mile Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail. I ran all over and all distances. Some of the miles were inracesbut most were runfor the freedom it provides and theincredible wildernessexperiences. It was the first year I spentdoing nothing but running.It seemed strange not spending every spare moment seeking out my vertical fix,to make a long boring story short, it turned out to be anecessary break and made my hunger for winter climbing season greater. Here we are on the verge of winter and I couldn't be more excited.
TodayLaura and Idecided to kick off thewinter climbing season andheaded to Ohiopyle State Parkto clear the cobwebs and get a quick refresher onhow to use ice tools.We spent a few hours taking a thrashing on the standard routes in very lean conditons. Seems there isn't much water flowing which in turn isn't prouducing much ice. There is no ice to be had at the start of Season Finale, while the Main flow, Hemlock and the others are slowly building and coming into shape. This weekend will only provide slim mixed pickings for those itching to get out. By next weekend, there should be climbable ice for all along Meadow Run.We were going to check Upper Meadow, but got distracted and completely forgot.Random photosofour day.
After Ohiopyle, we drove to Irishtown to see what we could find. Here's the photo report.
O'Yeah I forgot to metion we checked out some ice yesterday as well. I know we're not as lucky as most of the state and don't have much good ice climbing, but this is what we've got so far. I guess it'll have to do. The temperature at the parking area was 16°, less the ten degree differenceto the bottom which made it about 6° above there yesterday and it sure felt like it. The wind was rippingwhich should help to improve things a bit.
TodayLaura and Idecided to kick off thewinter climbing season andheaded to Ohiopyle State Parkto clear the cobwebs and get a quick refresher onhow to use ice tools.We spent a few hours taking a thrashing on the standard routes in very lean conditons. Seems there isn't much water flowing which in turn isn't prouducing much ice. There is no ice to be had at the start of Season Finale, while the Main flow, Hemlock and the others are slowly building and coming into shape. This weekend will only provide slim mixed pickings for those itching to get out. By next weekend, there should be climbable ice for all along Meadow Run.We were going to check Upper Meadow, but got distracted and completely forgot.Random photosofour day.
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| Lauracrossing the bridge for the first time of the season |
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| Myself below the iceless start to Season Finale |
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| Laura on Anger Management |
After Ohiopyle, we drove to Irishtown to see what we could find. Here's the photo report.
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| Main flow still very thin |
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| Dynamite M6 looks about ready |
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| The Prow coming in nicely |
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| One of this years projects??? |
O'Yeah I forgot to metion we checked out some ice yesterday as well. I know we're not as lucky as most of the state and don't have much good ice climbing, but this is what we've got so far. I guess it'll have to do. The temperature at the parking area was 16°, less the ten degree differenceto the bottom which made it about 6° above there yesterday and it sure felt like it. The wind was rippingwhich should help to improve things a bit.
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| Left End 12/7/10 SW Pennsylvania |
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| Overview of the Cliffs |
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| Laura my ice princesswas pleasantly surprised |
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| A happy ice climbing couple. Hope to see you this season! |
Crud Road Racer Fenders
My long-suffering Francesco Moser roadbikeis now sporting some fenders. A 1970s racing bike that originally came with tubulars, the frame has very tight clearances, and the rear brake bridge is particularly low. Even with 23mm tires it will not fit conventional fenders. That is why I wanted to try the Crud Road Racers - described as "mudguards for race bikes with minimum clearances." These fenders are rated to fit bikes with 4mm of clearance under the brake bridge. The Moser has just barely that.
Crud is an English company, and according to the packaging information the fenders are manufactured in Yorkshire, UK. Crud has recently become a sponsor, but the fenders pictured are mine and not a complimentary sample. My discovery of the Road Racers is owed to local randonneur Pamela Blalock, who uses them on her main brevet bike and prefers them to other fenders she's tried. Pamela describes the Cruds as highly durable, easy to install and remove, and extremely lightweight - a combination of characteristics that appealed to me. On a pure roadbike with narrow tires, I do not want permanent fenders. But I do want the option of installing them on occasion. While temporary clip-ons exist, they are flimsy and do not provide adequate coverage. The appealing thing about Crud is that they are real, full coverage fenders with the same easy on/off versatility.
Being entirely unfamiliar with Crud fenders to start with, it took us some time to understand how they are put together and what the installation procedure is. There is a brief instructions manual and an online video that might be a good idea to watch before starting. But once you know it's done, I would say the process should take 15 minutes tops.
The installation does not require any tools, and it does not require the hand strength to use real tools. Everything is affixed by hand using moderate pressure, with a combination of the plastic bolts, zip ties and rubber bands included in the kit.
The fenders are modular - the blade in 3 parts, plus the stays - making them easy to store and transport.
To install the fenders, the fork/stay attachment points are first installed using the double rubber bands provided. The fender is then partially assembled, slid under the brake bridge, and then the stays are attached to these points.
This is the attachment point for under the brake bridge. On some bikes it might be necessary to deflate the tire or remove the wheel to do this.
And here is the screw connecting the different parts of the blade.
Zipties are used to affix the fender to the brake bridge.
And also to affix the rear fender to the seat tube, above the front derailleur.
At the point where the fender attaches to the seat tube, there are two sets of holes that the zip-tie can go through, and we managed to tear one of them when adjusting the fender, so be aware. This point of attachment should be the last step, after the fender's position is set.
This part of the fender provides extra coverage. The clearances are tight here and it's close, but does not interfere with the derailleur.
As part of the installation,Crud provides these fuzzy adhesive pads to guard the tire from rubbing the fender directly.
Here they are peaking out from the sides.
The rear of the front fender is very close to my toe, but there does not seem to be overlap with my feet strapped in.
The front part of the front blade is a little skimpy compared to the rest of the fenders, but otherwise the coverage they provide is excellent.
Aesthetically, I think the Cruds look elegant and appropriate on a racy roadbike. When fitting bikes like this with fenders, the classic ones don't really look right and the clip-on ones are extremely ugly. To my eye, these look just right. And if you want to make them fancy, they can even be painted.
The clearance under the rear brake bridge on my Moser is only borderline adequate for these fenders and I am still deciding whether it's a good idea to use them regularly. But I will definitely use them on my new roadbike, where the clearances will be sufficient.
If the fit is right, I think the design is great for road/racing bikes that have tight clearances and no eyelets, or where you simply do not want the commitment of metal fender installation. While I can't speak for the fenders' durability at this stage, I am pleased withtheir full coverage,easy installation and removal, light weight, and subdued appearance. More pictures here.
The China Wall
The China Wall, originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.
Here's a local rock formation that is (amazingly) known of by few people. Called the China Wall, it extends for about 1/3 of a mile across a gap between hillsides. And speaking of hills, they're starting to get really green out here in California. Looks like it might actually be a pretty good spring...
Friday, August 22, 2014
Organizing Stuff? Here's a Good Deal on Plastic Totes!
Not sure if this is just an individual store deal (Fort Wayne) or nationwide but I just got a really good deal on storage totes at Staples. They have them online at $16.49 each, however, I just purchased several of them today in-store for $7.99 each! And may purchase more when I go back to Fort Wayne on Friday. Hopefully they will still have them and at the sale price. Oddly enough, I think the "everyday" in-store price was $14.49 though I can't imagine why they would cost $2 more if purchased online.It has slots inside, along all sides at the top, so it can hold hanging file folders. Because of the slots, the outside dimensions are a little bit bigger than the standard legal/letter cardboard "Banker's Box".
Staples Letter/Legal File Box
Snap-tight lid keeps contents secure. Space saving stackable design.
Made out of durable polypropylene. Holds both letter and legal files.
Clear with a clear lid. 10 7/8"H x 18 7/8"W x 18 1/4"D
Thursday, August 21, 2014
Honeymoon Trail, Northeast Minnesota
The colors are fantastic right now! Better get out there and enjoy them while they last!
Monday, August 18, 2014
Josh and his friend, Friend
Not to be outdone by Lauren, Josh also introduced me to his friend. Named friend. I know that is his name because I heard Josh say, "hey...that's my friend. Friend! I'm here!" He and friend did all the regular boy stuff then. There is really good boy stuff on a farm!
I mean, there are really, really cool boy things to do on a farm. We should have lived on a farm just for my two boys sake.
Thank you, Josh, for letting me follow you and friend around and snap shots of you doing your boy thing!
Yup, I got a shot of you that will make me smile every time I see it too!
I mean, there are really, really cool boy things to do on a farm. We should have lived on a farm just for my two boys sake.
Thank you, Josh, for letting me follow you and friend around and snap shots of you doing your boy thing!
Yup, I got a shot of you that will make me smile every time I see it too!
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