Flower in Old Town

These flowers were scattered all over Old Town and were in full bloom. The blossoms were huge being as much as 10 to 12 inches across and with big leaves. I was told they were a perennial hibiscus.

Staining Your Grips to Match Your Saddle

When I showedthese picturesearlier, some of you noticed that the cork grips matched the bicycle's saddle and I explained that the grips were stained. Now I've done the same to mywooden grips, and will take this opportunity to describe the process for those interested.



What is staining?Staining is inherently different from painting, in that the pigment gets absorbed into the surface, rather than sitting on top of it. This means that the natural texture of the material will remain prominent - the cork retaining its corkiness and the wood its woodiness. And unlike paint, stain won't crack.

Where to buyand what kind?You can buy a small can of wood stain at any hardware store. There are many different kinds to choose from, all of which should work on both cork and wooden grips. I suggest choosing a stain that is oil-based, not water-based or synthetic. Oil-based stains permeate better, look more natural, and are more fade-resistant.

Choosing a colourIf you are looking for a natural colour that will match a brown leather saddle, the main thing is to determine whether your saddle has yellow, red, or ashen (neutral) undertones. For example, Brooks"brown" has a red undertone to it, whereas Brooks "honey" has a yellow undertone. Velo Orange brown leather saddles are more or less neutral. A wood stain that is described as either cherry, mahogany, or redwood, or contains anything "red" in the name will, as you might imagine, have red undertones. A stain that is described as pine, or oak, or contains anything "golden" in the name, will have yellow undertones. A stain described as walnut, driftwood or ash will have neutral undertones. If you are trying to match a black saddle, look for ebony. This basic range of stain colours should be available at most hardware stores.

Applying wood stainOil-based stains require ventilation, so you will need to apply the stain in front of an open window or outdoors. Stir the stain inside the container very thoroughly, as the pigment tends to separate and settle on the bottom of the can. Then apply stain to the grips using an inexpensive paintbrush. Apply very thinly. The stain should not be leaking off of your grips and you should be able to see the texture of the wood or cork through it at all times - remember that it's more like a dye than a paint: slowly work it into the surface, rather than attempting to paint with it. Wipe the excess off with a napkin or rag and stand the grips to dry on a newspaper. Don't worry too much if your application doesn't look perfectly even; if anything, that complements the natural variations in the material. There is really not a whole lot you can do to mess this up.

Allow at least 24 hours for the stain to dry, then decide whether you need another layer. For grips, one is usually sufficient. The more layers, the darker and more saturated the pigment will look. If desired, apply a layer of shellac after the stain is fully dry. The wooden grips pictured here are not shellacked, but the cork ones here are.

And enjoy your beautifully matching saddle and grips. A pair of plain cork grips will set you back $10, and a small container of wood stain an additional $5. It's a fun and simple way to spruce up your handlebars.

A second opinion on the Scarpa Rebel Ultra

Patrick in his new Ultras.

Photo courtesy of P.J. Cooke



a guest blog by Patrick Walsh



As one would imagine, I was very very excited when I found out I
was going to own these boots. I had my reservations purchasing them
sight-unseen, not knowing if they would be the right size and/or fit my feet
properly. I figured worst case the boots should be pretty easy to re-sell if
nothing else.



My first reaction, and that of most to the Rebel Ultra, has been
“what are those, can I see them?” This is followed by “holy crap those are
freakish light.” They are more akin to a sneaker than an ice boot, and often
the next questions are “what size are they? Can I try them on!?” This initial
excitement is soon followed by “but are they warm enough?”



At this point i have spent twelve days climbing in these boots.
I was fortunate enough to receive them just before an end of season trip to the
Canadian Rockies. I have now spent eleven back-to-back days and one single
day on the east coast in these boots. Although this is not a long time to
have spent with a boot, I feel it has been enough time to offer some real
feedback having spent the better part of two weeks in them day in and day out.



I guess first we should talk about fit. I have what had been
described as a fairly low volume foot with a high arch. My feet measure US 11.5
left and 12 right. The first thing I did was toss the factory insoles and throw
the gamut of off the shelf offerings at the boots in an attempt to get the
perfect fit. In doing so I soon came to understand that these boots are not
your average ice boot, and that bit of toe wiggling room one usually looks for
in a attempt to stay warm and ward off black toe nails is not what this boot
wants to do. This boot wants to fit more like a rock shoe (think "all day
trad shoe") resulting in a boot that feels like a warm blanket but
performs like tightly fitted sport climbing shoe. I went back and forth with
insole/sock combos searching mostly for the ideal fit regarding volume. I kept
coming back to a fit that allowed me to just barely stuff my feet into the
boots without my toes bashing off the ends or cutting off my circulation, thus
leaving little need to crank down on the laces to keep my foot in place. Fit
this way, the boots offered an amazing combination of support and dexterity,
all the while feeling much more like a overbuilt running sneaker than an
uber-light ice boot of any sort. With so little to the upper of this boot, it
really needs to be fit this way in order to offer the support ones desires in
an ice boot. Had I fit the boots with room to wiggle my toes and cold weather
circulation in mind, the boots would begin to feel a bit sloppy and lack the
support I would want in a boot I planned on climbing ice in. Fit as I had them,
the boots offer the perfect combo of support and all day comfort and
performance.



My first impression of this boot was that it was a niche item. I
figured it would be one more tool in my quiver of gear probably reserved only
for warm and or fast and light days on moderate ice in moderate conditions.
Having now done everything from long alpine days on both hard and easy terrain
to a few short days spent ice cragging and even some mixed climbing in both
warm and cold weather, I have to say these are a do everything boot and a does
everything well boot. I would go as far as saying these are a do everything and
does everything better boot. Yes on a couple cold days high on a route with
wind whipping my feet got cold. But so did both of my partners’ feet in Nepals
and Baturas. Add to that the fact that I fit them with a lightweight Smartwool
PHD ski sock more akin to a cycling sock than a wool winter sock of yesteryear
and I think, although far from a warm boot, the boots are pretty darn warm. On
a coupe of high-teens to mid-twenties Fahrenheit days, my feet felt downright
warm. These boots both approach and climb so well that even days i expect to be
cold I still choose to wear them because they just climb that much better than
any other boot I have worn, and I have worn them all. I simply no longer want
to wear any other boot as my feet just love climbing in this boot.


In summary, this boot is crazy crazy light and built incredibly well
regarding craftsmanship and materials! The boot makes me feel more like a
spider monkey climbing ice simply on his way home rather than a giant ape
clumsily making his way up the Empire State building only to be shot down by fighter
planes in a attempt at freedom. For me at least this boot is a game changer and
one I might go as far as saying you will have to "pry from my cold dead
hands."



more feedback via previous emails:



On New England Ice?

"Boots are great! I can climb anything in them. Meaning they climb hard ice
just fine if not better than my other boots. Not sure if it is in my head but I
suspect a little of both. They might be a 1/2 size small but only cuz I have
had to run my high volume custom orthotics in them.

In all reality I am pretty sure these boots made me a better climber for
real. I pretty much have stoppedkicking as I can just place my feet on the
smallest of features. What once felt like a tiny ledge now feels like a
giant shelf.I am in love!! They will be cold on cold cold days but it is
clear this is not a cold weather boot. Still though it will be very
very hard to ever want to climb in anything elseever!"




Two weeks later:

"So we had a great first trip to the Canadian Rockies. We ended up
getting out 11 daysstraight.
The boots rocked. I brought my Phantom Guides and never once wore
them. I have only great things to say about the Rebels."






The original Cold Thistle review is here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//02/the-scarpa-rebels-part-one-ultra.html

A day in Zandvoort

This month, June has been such a terrible weather month. It is supposed to be summer now but it’s been raining non-stop for days and weeks already with low temperatures between 10C and 15C by day. It feels like we are stuck in a time warp, like we are still in spring or have fast forwarded to autumn.

At the beach we rented a pair of sunbeds and a wind cover. I am sure this book is great, a bestseller in the Netherlands but I could not finish it. I am not into tear-jerking, overly romantic and sentimental storylines, and that goes as well with music . I honestly thought I could read this to improve my Dutch (book was referred to by a friend) but helaas I am not motivated to read further. I will just stick to reading newspapers and business and travel magazines, in Dutch.

What I would like to share to you is a trip to Zandvoort aan Zee, one of the Netherland’s coastal villages in the North Holland province. We went there on a Monday last month, May. Mondays are always busy days, traffic on the highways, meetings at work, doing the necessary administrative stuff, etcetera but it was such a fine feeling, quite liberating in fact, to be at the beach instead. It kind of gives you that ‘I have finally retired’ or ‘I have won the lotto so I don’t bother with working’ feeling. Well, at least for a day.

The weather was not really that warm but it was warm enough to sit outside in a bikini and drink a glass of chilled rose.

Zandvoort also has a nice little centrum with amusing shops and appealing café terraces. All in all, it is an enjoyable little coastal town and we had a very relaxing Monday.

Not busy on a Monday here at the beach.

Zandvoort beach. There were quite a number of kitesurfers that day.

Nice little centrum of Zandvoort.

Did some people watching while sitting on a cafe terrace.

The Zandvoort aan zee train station is actually pretty. This train station was opened in 3 June 1881 and is connected to Amsterdam via Haarlem.

Residential part of Zandvoort aan Zee.

Garden Glory Continues

Grandpa Ott is a good-looking grandpa.

What we won't see in North America? More Rando gear.

While I am waiting for new ski gear to arriveI've beenlooking around the Internet. Even going to OR doesn't mean you will see "everything" just whatis going to be sold inNA.



If you live in the EU likely you'll have more choices than here in NA. Just makes the choices harder :)








TLT6 with a fiber glass cuff/ plus something else thereand at least something similar to the ThermoLight (CL) foam liner @ 1120g and @ an exceptional price point.







TLT6 Performance version of the same boot is 1050g












TLT6 Mountain CL andthe Thermo Light foam liner is 1225g in a 27.5





TLT "race" CL liner left, the standard NA-US CR liner on the right,

unverified weight difference is a marginal 120g





And the two liner options? Guess they didn't justdropPDG or the oldPliner in the newTLT6. Turns out they are very similar but slightly different, laces now, more reinforcement for durability and a bigger flex cuff in the boot shaft. Thickness of the foam is different (1mm maybe 2mm) as well. between TLT and EVO. PDG and Evo liners are thinner and offer an even easierankle flex for a longer stride. But the thin PDG/EVO linerit might be an option if you need more room in your TLT?! Interested to see what the foam liner will actually be if it is ever available in the US...and what is available in Europe. No question what Wild Snow is showing for the TLT6 is not theliner

Mountainski has pictured here.



http://www.wildsnow.com/10766/dynafit-tlt-6-p-first-retail-look/



I have the Palau liner Lou is showing and it is a thin version with little change other than thickness and flex insert size from the TLT5 P liners.







photo courtesy of mountianski.cz



http://www.mountainski.eu/177/several-days-long-testing-of-prototype-of-new-ski-touring-boots-dynafit-tlt6






Andtwoof the bindings we will be missing.






Low tech Radical





Speed C-One

Morning Glory With Dew

A Grandpa Ott covered in dew.

Where Do You Want to Go, Really?

I was telling a local cyclist about my dream bicycle tour, one I've imagined for years. It is still a matter of wishful thinking for now, but nonetheless I've mapped it all out: 650 miles of cycling up the coast, from the North Shore of Massachusetts to the easternmost tip of Downeast Maine. The coastline is jagged there and hugging it makes for a decidedly circuitous route. And my plan is to hug every curve - to not let the ocean out of my sight if I can help it. The cyclist I was talking to - an experienced bicycle tourist - said that the logistics of my plan sounded solid, but that it seemed like an awful lot of work for such a bleak destination. Do I realise how stark and desolate that area is? The picturesque Maine everyone envisions - with its seaside farms, historical houses and sandy beaches - is actually in the southern part of the state.There are some popular scenic New England routesthat I might want to consider instead.



In fact my choice of route is deliberate and I know exactly what that area is like. Still, I am taking the warning seriously. Often we imagine what we think is a dream destination, only to learn that it's not that great to actually cycle there. It can be a matter of traffic, of overly challenging terrain, of insufficient amenities, or even of scenery that, while beautiful, becomes unexpectedly monotonous at bicycling speed. Or maybe our memory of a place focuses on one specific spot that is stunning to visit, but glosses over the fact that the route to it is in itself unremarkable. I have had these experiences on local rides, so I can certainly imagine the disappointment on a long tour. After all, a tour is something we need to to plan for, take time off work - we want it to be special and worth it.



So how can we tell where we want to go, really? Reading others' ride reports of the route we are considering might be helpful. It's also worth paying attention to what we personally enjoy and don't enjoy about the cycling experience. I know that I prefer rough scenery to the more manicured postcard-pretty stuff.I like sparsely populated areas.I love to see bogs overgrown with green algae, dilapidated barns, ghostly forests. I don't mind badly maintained roads. I prefer as little car traffic as possible and am willing to pay for the backroads experience by climbing extra hills. I do not grow bored of looking at the ocean. But I also cannot ride for long in direct sunlight, and I know that coastal routes tend to have much less shade than inland routes. It's hard to say whether my hypothetical dream ride along the Maine coast will be enjoyable in practice. But it's nice to dream for now.



How have your dream bicycling destinations measured up against reality?

RTC(W) Company 70-14 Graduation

In the picture at left, that's me carrying the Stars and Stripes. At right is the company passing in review.
After graduation from Basic Training on January 23, 1970, I was sent to the Naval Air Station in Norfolk, Virginia. In April 1971, I attended photographer's Mate "A" School in Pensacola, Florida and after that training was completed I returned to NTC Bainbridge! The base closing was announced in 1971 and I attended the last WAVES formal graduation on May 12th 1972, which was for company 28-72 . I thought it was sad that, according to the scanned article below, there were four additional companies that completed their training at Bainbridge but they apparently did not have a formal graduation ceremony. I can't imagine going through Basic Training without having some kind of ceremony to mark its completion.
The 1,000 acre Navy Training Center was located on the bluffs and rolling hills above the town of Port Deposit, Maryland (situated on the banks of the Susquehanna River where it enters the northern reaches of the Chesapeake Bay). It was officially closed on March 31, 1976 after 34 years of service. Opened in 1942 as a recruit training center for men, it became the home of the Naval Academy Prep School as well as the center for other specialized Navy training schools including, in 1948, the Recruit Training Command (Women).

The photographs in the above article are credited to PH3 Becky Wise. . . but it really was me that took them, I was the only Navy photographer on base at that time.

Comments, Arguments, Bicycles...

[image via Chris 531]

Over the past couple of weeks, I've spent considerably more time moderaring comments than usual. For the most part, it's been a handful of readers getting overzealous in their debates with one another. But when hostility enters a discussion, others get sucked into it as well. All I know is: I don't want to be the Jerry Springer of bicycle blogs. I would rather have fewer comments, but retain the atmosphere of comradery that has been characteristic here thus far.



I have wondered whether discussions about bicycles are somehow more prone to conflict than other topics. Readers often tell me that they are uncomfortable commenting on various online bicycle forums and blogs, because they find the atmosphere hostile. And I understand that: I myself have a difficult time communicating on bikeforums, despite it being such a valuable resource for technical information.I also can no longer read the comments on Yehuda Moon,because of all the bickering between readers there. It is well documented that there exist genuine differences between what kind of interactions people find enjoyable: Some prefer for everything to be in the style of a debate, with technical inaccuracies in the wording of others victoriously exposed. Others favour a more nurturing, open form of communication. My own preference is somewhere in between: I like a good debate and I am fine with being challenged, as long as the underlying mood feels friendly.



[images via Schwar]

Sometimes I think that we'd all be nicer over the internet, if we just imagined all the unknown others out there as kittens. Kittens, who love bicycles - at times feisty, but ultimately sweet and fluffy, pedaling happily through the fragrant meadows. Do you really want to hurt their feelings?



But for those who can't deal with the kitten metaphor and prefer specifics, I will be more direct: I think that it is a matter of common sense to refrain from mocking or deriding others' points of view in the comments. It's not that everyone has to agree, but sometimes there are nicer ways to disagree. In the same vein, consider refraining from statements that, while technically speaking may be phrased politely, you know in your heart of hearts are inflammatory (for example: "No offense meant, but riding a blue bicycle lowers your IQ and transmits STDs"). Finally, allow me to suggest that it is best to avoid making speculative, or misleading statements about individuals or entities that can be considered slanderous (for example: "I heard that Lovely Bicycle is written in the Far East, using child labor and toxic inks"). I trust that most people understand the difference between comments that are "in good faith" and "not in good faith."



Meaningful reader feedback has been a defining element of "Lovely Bicycle" from the start, and it makes me happy to be the hostess of such thoughtful, interesting discussions. As one reader recently suggested, my posts are collaborative: I offer my views, and others offer their views in return. It's a constructive exchange, which I think works nicely. Please help me keep it that way. And think of the cycling kittens.

Ice tool rotation?

1st genPetzl Nomic and a new Trango Raptor




"Here is a bit of rehashed info (from ) on the rotation issue some are having with the newest tools.



If you have bought a "new" tool that looks a lot like a Nomic something worth pondering if it isn't "working" quite right for you.A few people coming from a Nomic are finding an uncomfortable "bounce" in a few of the newer tools on ice and the tool being a little scary when pulling bulges. If you are new to this kind of tool likely you will have even more problems climbing pure ice and be blaming all sorts of things. Generally what is getting blamed is not going to be a "fix".



Climbers have little or no no institutional memory generally.

Yes even a couple of degrees one way or the other on pick angle will make a difference. But if it were only that obvious it would be an easy fix. Blaming the pick angle as "too steep" generally isn't the problem. I can think of two tools specifically that opening up the grip even just a little and gaining more rotation in the swing makes a big difference.



It is not a hand /glove size issue for length of grip. Much as one might first think between pick angle and grip size. I've foundthat it is neither of those particular issues.






more rotation





less rotation




Many of us asked for a spike on the Nomic. ThenBD gave it to us as the new Fusion. But if you have climbed very long you'll remember how we all choked the end of a shaft to get a better swing on short tools often almost negating/chopping the spike off all together for steep ice performance to eliminate bounce and help pulling bulges BD's Fusion spike you can remove. Take a close look at thenew DMM, the newest Grivel "Machine", Edelrid's, Camp's X Dreamoffering orTrango Raptor. Not all the grips are the same. Tight grips for the little pinky limit rotation as do spikes (most every one's) or additional blades (Petzl). Bigger is likely better when it comes to the size of the constriction for the little finger. Smaller is better on the spike. Simply because either in the wrong size(any size?) willlimit the rotation available from the tool. Limited rotation means a unfriendly tool in many ways on pure ice.






Brian pulling on 1st gen Nomics




For some the arc of swing on a new tools with a spike intact is limited to small side of 180 degrees without changing your grip. While the olderNomic and a smooth pommel (no blade) can go something like 210 degrees. Don't hold me to the exact numbers but realise one tool can swing a bigger arc than the other inside the palm of your hand. It is important for pulling bulges.











Nomic/Fusion over lay






Very cool to have a removable spike or no spike. Remove the spike for steep mixed and ice and you'll gain some but not all of the arc/rotation back. Most of the bounce will also disappear. With the use of a Dremel/grinder/hand file (or just some good rough emery paper) you can get an equal amount of swing arc on the new Fusion/Raptor by rounding the inside and end of the pommel more like the olderNomic grip. Might make a big difference for you if you are having small issues with any of the newertools with a tight bottom grip.Opening up the trigger slot on the bottom of the grip will gain rotation of the tool in your hand.



A simple, inexpensive mod, takes just a few minutes with power tools, that might make a big difference for you. Down side is you loose the umbilical attachment on the spike. But that's not a big deal on hard cragging anyway and most will use umbilicals and the spike on longer stuff no matter what small disadvantages on hard technical ground they both might create.



More rotationin the shaft will alsoallowa strongergrip with less effort. Much as you might like that super tight grip on your little finger. Some times bigger is better!"
















DMM Switch










Edelrid's












Trango Raptor







Camp X Dream





That is the modern stuff. The idea of the tool having enough rotation in the hand to be useful is not new. I didn't come up wiht this stuff by myself. Just been around long enough to see how it has changed climbing and always made it easier if the reasoning is better understood.



Here are the ferrule and spike from the classic Chouinard Bamboo Piolet (top) and the secondmore technical tool, the Chouinard Bamboo Zero (bottom). The Zero has been taped for a better grip.















The Ferrule on each tool is the same size. The spike on the Zero is almost exactly a 1/2 size replica of the original Piolets. 6cm cut down to 3cm. One reason....and that was to allow better rotation in the hand. Which resulted in easier sticks and less effort.



Some even went to the extremeand prefered nospikefor their own water falltools.